WEST TO EAST: DAYS 3, 4 and 5

In the interest of finishing something, here are some snaps from days 3, 4 and 5 of our cross country road trip. Day 3 found us at White Sands National Monument in New Mexcio. It's an eerie, all white landscape with space-station picnic booths in the middle of the sand dunes. About .2 miles in to hiking the 65' sand drifts I freaked out a bit: the heat, the blinding white, the absence of water. But not before the obligatory runandjump photo. That night we stayed in Pecos, TX, tiny town with, quite oddly, a Best Western styled in the fashion of a Swiss chalet (built by the Swiss proprietiers Swiss son, featuring Swiss memoribelia, including these funny costume prints, everywhere). Then on to the old stockyards of Forth Worth, Texas where there waere animals alive, dead and represented: a petting zoo, an antler chandelier and deer head at the steakhouse, and a fantastic horse lamp outside of the Texas Cowboy Hall of Fame. Day 5 was Jackson, Misssissippi, most notable for the other-worldy fried chicken at Two Sisters (it is worth a trip if you are within 1,000 miles of the restaurant); the stately central post office that is now for lease by a private developer (sob); and the canny aesthetic sense on display at the Farmer's Market.

West to east: day 2

We spent the night in Phoenix last night, at an oasis called ZenYard Guest House. The proprietors -- Eddie and Dale -- are delightful and told us about the Musical Instrument Museum. Have you been? The way it works is each country has a display, and that display includes that country's instruments. There is also a TV of footage of musicians in that country playing music and when you stand in front of the TV music plays through your headset. It lands on my list of favorite museums ever. Above: footage from four exhibits (North Korea, Spain, American hip hop and then a video about making scrolls for player pianos). Also, textiles, miniature violins and a map of Africa showing all of the languages (the close up area is like 1 square inch of the continent). And yes, another post office. I had my first raspado. Are you thinking of opening a restaurant in a summery vacation spot (Rob A., I am talking to you)? Include raspados and you will have lines out the door. Basically: shaved ice, fresh fruit in syrup (mango in my case) topped with a ball of vanilla ice cream that, within minutes, melts into this awesome not too sweet shake smoothie type thing. And lastly, my favorite story of the day was at the Opera exhibit at MIM. There I came upon a man and his wife. She was blind. As they listened to the music on their headsets the man would describe to her what he saw on the TV (Him: "Now Madame Butterfy comes out in her kimono." Her: "Are they dancing?" Him: "Now there is an image of Papageno playing the flute." Her: "What does his face look like?"). What an inspiring gesture of love. 

 

WEST TO EAST: DAY 1

 

And we're on the road again. After a throughly crazy move we hopped in the car at 2 AM on Tuesday night, dropped off 20 feet of calligraphed scroll for a collaboration with wonderful, patient Kate of Flowerwild and said goodbye to LA. This journey will take us through South Carolina, Philadelphia, Boston and a month in New York (NYC collaborators: let's get together!). Day 1: Joshua Tree National Park. Guys, GUYS have you been there? It is like an alien universe with green to brown ombre cactuses; puzzle piece rock formations; and the miles of trees with outstretched, crooked arms. What visit is complete without a trip to the post office; sending a few postcards (there is an Oasis of Mara) and, of course, listening to "Where the Streets Have No Name" 'til the speakers pound. 

NEST

So during my freshman year in college I decided to make a human sized nest-swing whereby I commissioned a blacksmith to forge a metal "basket" type structure, wove it with grapevines from a nearby vineyard, filled it with foam, lined it with waterproof cloth, and hung it from a tree on campus. In hindsight, it would have been a lot better had I enlisted the help of a physics major (at a certain point it started to sort of...bend). You can imagine how giddy I was to discover the Treebones nest which sits between two trees (and is immeasurably sturdier and more wonderful than my attempt) and overlooks the Big Sur coast. They had a last minute opening two nights ago and we decamped there with our sleeping bags. The moon was so bright reflecting on the ocean just outside our nest portal and made is almost impossible to sleep, so distracting was the beauty. What an amazing experience. If you ever have the chance, go! (PS: I am now on instagram -- @neithersnow. Are you?)

OSBP + DECALS + FLORENCE

Julie at Oh So Beautiful Paper kindly posted a profile of Neither Snow over here today. Thank you! I'm honored to be included (and check out other calligrapher friends in her "Calligraphy Inspiration" series). She notes the latest project I've had up my sleeve: decals (more to come). For too long, decals have been relegated to the world of walls (or the side of minivans) but they can be used on nearly any other surface: notebooks, leather, glass, wood, fabric, mirrors, chalkboard, ceramic. And they don't register as "decal." They register is "how did you get calligraphy on to that surface?" You may ask: "Why not just use paint or ink?" After experimenting for the last year I have fallen in love with this medium and here are a few reasons why: 

1. Decals maintain the calligraphy's crispness and hairline strokes, unlike paint or chalkboard pens.
2. Vinyl comes in an unimaginable spectrum of colors, including glitter, metallic, high gloss and super matte.
3. Clients can easily apply decals on their end. For example: names on 300 "escort" votives in Miami? Done! And without the environmental and financial cost of shipping the glassware back and forth.
4. Decals are scalable and flexible. We can create gigantic banners and signs or very tiny names and wrap the calligraphy around rounded surfaces.

Here are a few more snaps from a recent project I collaborated on with designer and stylist Joy Thigpen for one of her workshops and photographed by Rylee Hitchner. Joy said, "Gold. Silver. Notebooks." and this is the final product, given to each attendee.

Finally: the cat is out of the bag. A. + I are moving to Florence, Italy in September for the year (!!!). This means I'll be scaling back client work that has to be shipped to and fro (printed envelopes; escort cards). I'll be focusing on digitized calligraphy for invitation suites, tattoos, decals, fabric and other fun projects (shipped stateside); work that can be shipped directly from Florence (unprinted envelopes; place cards and escort cards on Italian papers); and European clients. If you were hoping to work together on a project that falls into the first category, please be in touch with my stupendously talented colleagues listed to the right. The move also means we're looking for a renter for our Philadelphia home (if you know of anyone) and are in need of fantastic Florence suggestions.

{Photos by Rylee Hitchner}

EL CAPITAIN + LE WEEKEND

Last week Amanda and I headed up the coast for a girls getaway before doing a little shoot with Jose Villa. We stayed at El Capitain Canyon, which has both safari tents and cabins to rent. What a glorious weekend. Antique shopping, tacos at La Super Rica in Santa Barbara (thanks, Joy!), ice cream and mint chocolates at Ingeborg's, a drive up Figeuroa Mountain Road, owls, hiking, dance parties in the car, cherry ring pops, drinking red wine through paper striped straws, crafting on picnic tables (do you know this tumblr, Ghetto Hikes? You must!). From top to bottom: the tents, the trees, the cozy inside, straws, hike, this sweet note I found inside of a silk nighgown at the antiques store, Jose at work + his divine office, the rainbow mottled bark of a tree (and the new header for winter '12). It was so fun to meet Jose and Joel in person, having collaborated with them on so many fun projects. Thanks so much for the outstanding suggestions, guys! Can't wait to come back!

Fraktur in Westminster, CA

I had reason to visit Westminster, California earlier this month (can't wait to share why - a clue: a saw, a saint, an exercise ball) and was totally perplexed by the street signs that are in some Fraktur-esque font. Why? Does anyone know? I emailed the city for an explanation. I can't tell you how much "Trask" looked like "Trash" street. Tips appreciated.

SMALL BUSINESS CRUSH: HOTEL PARQ CENTRAL

I'm adding to my list of small business crushes Hotel Parq Central in Albuquerque, New Mexico. I had the pleasure of staying there before the final leg of my holiday travels to Chicago and it was charming (thanks to Kristina for the suggestion).

It was originally built in 1926 as a hospital to treat employees of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway, then became a psychiatric hospital, and was repurposed into a hotel last year (more here). Heather Van Luchene Interiors oversaw the decor which included so many thoughtful details (from top): framed, enlarged historic postcards sent from residents of the hospital (this one says "Having a fine time" from the 1930s) in the guestrooms; mini cabinet of curiosity-esque exhibits throughout the hallways on the five senses, medicinals, old diagnosis codes, hat boxes (is this a trend? Mounting exhibit vetrines in hotels? If not, it should be); vintage inspired lighting. There's a writing desk off of the lobby that features cubbies with old photos, stamps, telegrams, coupons and railway ephemera of the day. The shutters in the hallway are industrial plastic (?), with a pattern that calls to mind hospital wards of yore. And the rest of the interior design can only be described as comfortable, institutional chic evocative of the sanatorium from Thomas Mann's Magic Mountain: terrariums, sun-drenched sitting rooms, comfortable reading chairs (the design of that green one is amazing). This, to me, is a model revitalization project.

You'll find Apothecary Lounge on the roof with great views of the city. My three minor quibbles (only because it stands in such sharp contrast to the rest): the interior space could be so much cozier, and atmospherically lighted (recessed track lighting? Really? May I suggest something closer to this from Gjelina in Los Angeles, with maybe more of a modern Shane's Candy Store quality (in Philadelphia)?). And why not list the drink prices on the menu? It's no fun making guests ask the price of a half dozen different brands of scotch ranging from $9 -$25 a glass. And I feel like implementing a dress code in Albuquerque is exclusive and off-putting, especially if you are trying to build goodwill in a community where you have to include this (admittedly endearing) disclaimer on the website:

The Apothecary Lounge is not a licensed pharmacy and does not fill prescriptions or practice pharmacy.

But overall, three cheers for the developers, designers, city of Albuquerque and Huning Highland Historic District Neighborhood Association.

{Photos by Neither Snow}

SEGESSER HIDES

I visited the recently opened New Mexico History Museum, a grand new addition to Santa Fe's cultural scene that documents the area's tri-cultural history. The exhibit design is impeccable: juxtapositions of Indian and Spanish serving utensils, projecting past and present images of Santa Fe's streets on the interior canvas of a caravan, audio of the articles of various treaties with Indians read in both English and native languages, old steamer trunks of families who traveled from out east, a haunting room of quotes devoted to the secrecy surrounding the Manhattan project, lantern slides, and an engrossing interactive exhibit on the Segesser Hides from the 1700s-- beautiful, detailed animal hides that depict a battle between the French and Spanish, and their Native American allies. The interactive was designed by Second Story Studio (which seems like an amazing place to work) and you can explore for yourself here. I think what I like most are the gold outlines that emphasize the historical players (including rabbits), and the way that you can zoom in to every square inch and notice things like body paint, flora, fauna and ornamentation.

SANTA FE

We are back in Santa Fe for Christmas which is a ridiculously magical time of year. I encourage everyone to visit Canyon Road on Christmas Eve at least once in their lifetime, and experience thousands of faralitos (candles in paper bags) illuminating downtown; turning down an alley and finding a crowd gathered around a model train making circles around a piñon tree; the flying faralitos that mesmerize onlookers set alight at Acequia Madre elementary school; the incredible fashion - furs, Navajo jackets; fires on the street to warm yourself; RTVs transporting free cider; random brass bands leading Christmas carols.

And also, a visit to the unparalleled Nicholas Potter bookstore, where you'll find the gardening section in the back kitchen. He always has the most interesting, beautiful books specific to the region like (above) a study of Indian running; fly-fishing illustrations; boxed sets and a history of master potter Maria Martinez. If you don't know anything about her work, check out the videos below (you may want to disable the cheesy soundtrack).